This is the Patek Philippe Ref 5146 Annual Calendar. It is elegant, understated, and practical, a classic Patek Philippe for everyday wear. No, this is not a sports replica watch. Nor, for that matter, is its case made of steel. (Nor will you also won’t pay a ridiculous premium for either of these privileges.) Instead, it blurs the line between casual wear and formal wear. Wear it to the office, the bar, or the cocktail party – it’s incredibly versatile. Plus, the size of the case makes it comfortable on the wrist all day and night. However, you won’t see this model plastered all over Instagram. It certainly has a fan base, but the Ref 5146 is not the subject of hype. It’s for those who like to keep a low profile without compromising on quality. Or brand power.
Like all annual calendars from Patek Philippe, the story of Ref 5146 begins with Ref 5035, the brand’s first annual calendar watch. It was also the first annual calendar complication to be introduced to the market. The process of creating a new complication began back in 1991 and took almost five years to perfect. As a logical development of the perpetual calendar, the concept was quickly accepted. Especially in view of its simplified functionality.
It also filled a gap in Patek Philippe’s pricing system. Offering collectors a viable alternative between classic Calatrava and grand complications. The so-called “small complication” strategy of the mid-1990s. As a result, replica Patek Philippe created the Ref 5035 to be suitable for everyday wear. The round case has a diameter of 37 mm and sloping lugs. And the dial is somehow able to display all the calendar indications without looking crowded. It’s an impressive achievement, although the beauty of the Roman numerals hasn’t aged well. At least for my tastes.
The Ref 5035 was followed in 1998 by the Ref 5036, which introduced the moon phase at 6 o’clock. (marking the first time this complication was paired with an annual calendar.) There is also a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. It also had a magnificent beige metal strap that was a huge hit. In fact, years later, it would provide the inspiration for the bracelet of the steel Ref 5960. Thanks to its 36 mm case size, things on the dial start to get a littleā¦ compact. It’s still legible, but there’s not much room to breathe.
Having replaced Patek Philippe’s first annual calendar in 2005, Ref 5146 needed to fill some big gaps. At least metaphorically speaking. But instead of doing anything too ambitious, the brand focused on perfecting its offerings. The case is yellow or white gold (platinum and rose gold were later added) and was expanded to 39 mm. This was still practical for everyday wear, but more reflective of the tastes and trends of the time. The extra space also opened up some breathing room for the dial.
Patek Philippe improved on this by removing the Roman numerals from the hour markers. Instead, the Ref 5146 has a more modern dial design with Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12 o’clock. The date is still displayed via an aperture at 6 o’clock. In a welcome decision, the brand retains the moon phase and power reserve indications of Ref 5036. This is despite the fact that the latter has a more elegant and refined layout.